Tools of the Trade: Dental Floss

Yes, dental floss! UN-waxed floss is thin and strong, and occasionally quite useful in the kitchen. I've always got some hidden in the back of a drawer.

• Floss can be used to tie up poultry legs or stuffed pork roast.
• It does a fine job cutting yeast dough (as in cinnamon rolls). Just ease it under the dough, cross over the top of the dough, and pull in opposite directions.
• You can use a similar technique to cut cakes into even layers. Position the floss right where you want it around the edge, cross, and pull through.
• I was making hot spiced cider last week and wanted to keep the spices all together. Not one to keep chesecloth on hand, I fashioned a bag out of a coffee filter and dental floss. It worked very well and was easy to fish out after steeping.

There you have it--a new tool to try. Just make sure it's UN-waxed!

UPDATE: I'm having difficulty finding unwaxed floss. I'll have to settle for unflavored floss for cold applications (cutting dough and cake layers); I still prefer unwaxed for other jobs (in the oven, hot cider).

Cinnamon Rolls

Cinnamon Rolls
This recipe makes two 9" x 13" pans of soft, sweet, buttery, cinnamony rolls. They are irresistible! I've slightly adapted it from a recipe from my mom's friend's mother-in-law, Adelaide.

Rolls:
2 cups milk
1/3 cup cold butter
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg
2 pkg yeast (4 1/2 tsp)
1 tsp salt
6 cups (+) flour

Filling:
1 cup softened butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
2 Tbsp cinnamon

Icing:
3 cups powdered sugar
cream or milk
splash of vanilla, optional

Heat the 2 cups milk (but don't boil). Pour into mixing bowl and add butter, cut in chunks. Let butter melt (which will cool the milk, too). When the milk is lukewarm (105-115 degrees F), add sugar, egg, and yeast. Let it stand for about 5 minutes, until the yeast begins to foam. Add salt and 3 cups flour, mixing well. Add remaining flour and knead into a soft dough. You may need more flour. (In a Kitchen Aid mixer, mix on speed 2 until the dough clears the sides of the bowl--sprinkling more flour if necessary--then mix for 2 more minutes.) Cover and let rise until doubled.

Meanwhile, combine filling ingredients.

Punch down the risen dough. Roll 1/2 the dough into a rectangle, about 12" x 18". I like to work on freezer paper taped to the counter. I made a few marks on it to guide the size of my rectangle. Spread with the filling, leaving about 1/2" strip of dough plain. Roll up the dough along the long side and pinch the edges to seal.

[I misread the recipe this time--that picture shows only HALF the recommended filling...]
Cut into 20 pieces. I cut the long roll in half, then each of those in half, leaving four smaller logs. Cut each of these into 5 pieces. Try to make the thicknesses similar. Some rolls will be wider than others, because the center of your original roll is bigger than the ends. Just put the smaller ones in the middle of the pan. Lay these 20 rolls in a greased 9" x 13" pan. Repeat with remaining dough.
I make the first cut with a knife, but use unwaxed dental floss (or at least unflavored, if that's all I can find) for all the rest. Ease it under the dough and wrap it around the top. Pull the two ends in opposite directions, and you'll make a beautiful, clean cut that doesn't smush the roll out of shape.

Cover and let rise again until almost double. Bake at 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes, or until lightly browned. I bake only one pan at a time.

Glaze while hot or warm or cool. Mix the powdered sugar with cream or milk (and optional vanilla) to achieve the proper consistency. If you are glazing hot rolls, make the icing very thick; it will melt all over. The cooler the rolls, the thinner your icing can start out. You may want to spread icing on one roll and watch it for a few minutes to decide whether or not to add more milk.

These are, of course, best eaten warm. Microwaving a cool roll for just a few seconds works wonders.

Make-ahead tips:
The rolls pictured here were mixed, risen, spread, and cut one night then put in the fridge. In the morning I warmed the oven SLIGHTLY, put a Pyrex of boiling water on the floor, and let the rolls rise in there. Then I baked one pan at a time.

My mom and I have had success baking the rolls ahead and then freezing them (uniced and out of the pan) wrapped in plastic and foil. When ready to serve, just put in pans, thaw (overnight at room temperature), warm in the oven (covered with foil), and glaze.

I think they are best freshly baked, so for Christmas 2008 I am going to try freezing the raw sliced rolls, thawing them in the fridge, and baking in the morning. I'll update the recipe with my success or failure.

UPDATE: I made the Christmas rolls just a day ahead, but my sister froze some shaped rolls. She said they thawed and baked up beautifully. Now we know!

Note: I've copied all this text below without pictures for anyone who wants to print just the recipe. Bon Appetit!

Bonus picture: Here's the island late at night after roll making and birthday decorating. Yes, I went to bed with it looking like that! I did get up early enough to raise and bake the rolls and get everything clean again. I must clear and wash that thing at least three times a day...

Cinnamon Rolls
This recipe makes two 9" x 13" pans of soft, sweet, buttery, cinnamony rolls. They are irresistible! I've slightly adapted it from a recipe from my mom's friend's mother-in-law, Adelaide.

Rolls:
2 cups milk
1/3 cup cold butter
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg
2 pkg yeast (4 1/2 tsp)
1 tsp salt
6 cups (+) flour

Filling:
1 cup softened butter
1 1/3 cups sugar
2 Tbsp cinnamon

Icing:
3 cups powdered sugar
cream or milk
splash of vanilla, optional

Heat the 2 cups milk (but don't boil). Pour into mixing bowl and add butter, cut in chunks. Let butter melt (which will cool the milk, too). When the milk is lukewarm (105-115 degrees F), add sugar, egg, and yeast. Let it stand for about 5 minutes, until the yeast begins to foam. Add salt and 3 cups flour, mixing well. Add remaining flour and knead into a soft dough. You may need more flour. (In a Kitchen Aid mixer, mix on speed 2 until the dough clears the sides of the bowl--sprinkling more flour if necessary--then mix for 2 more minutes.) Cover and let rise until doubled.

Meanwhile, combine filling ingredients.

Punch down the risen dough. Roll 1/2 the dough into a rectangle, about 12" x 18". I like to work on freezer paper taped to the counter. I made a few marks on it to guide the size of my rectangle. Spread with the filling, leaving about 1/2" strip of dough plain. Roll up the dough along the long side and pinch the edges to seal.

Cut into 20 pieces. I cut the long roll in half, then each of those in half, leaving four smaller logs. Cut each of these into 5 pieces. Try to make the thicknesses similar. Some rolls will be wider than others, because the center of your original roll is bigger than the ends. Just put the smaller ones in the middle of the pan. Lay these 20 rolls in a greased 9" x 13" pan. Repeat with remaining dough.

I make the first cut with a knife, but use UN-waxed dental floss for all the rest. Ease it under the dough and wrap it around the top. Pull the two ends in opposite directions, and you'll make a beautiful, clean cut that doesn't smush the roll out of shape.

Cover and let rise again until almost double. Bake at 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes, or until lightly browned. I bake only one pan at a time.

Glaze while hot or warm or cool. Mix the powdered sugar with cream or milk (and optional vanilla) to achieve the proper consistency. If you are glazing hot rolls, make the icing very thick; it will melt all over. The cooler the rolls, the thinner your icing can start out. You may want to spread icing on one roll and watch it for a few minutes to decide whether or not to add more milk.

These are, of course, best eaten warm. Microwaving a cool roll for just a few seconds works wonders.

Make-ahead tips:
The rolls pictured here were mixed, risen, spread, and cut one night then put in the fridge. In the morning I warmed the oven SLIGHTLY, put a Pyrex of boiling water on the floor, and let the rolls rise in there. Then I baked one pan at a time.

My mom and I have had success baking the rolls ahead and then freezing them (uniced and out of the pan) wrapped in plastic and foil. When ready to serve, just put in pans, thaw (overnight at room temperature), warm in the oven (covered with foil), and glaze.

I think they are best freshly baked, so for Christmas2008 I am going to try freezing the raw sliced rolls, thawing them in the fridge, and baking in the morning. I'll update the recipe with my success or failure.

Bon Appetit!

Tools of the Trade: Cherry Pitters

For pitting soft cherries like the sour ones on our tree I use this heirloom tool made by Opa with, yes, a hairpin. I insert the metal loop in the dimple where the cherry stem used to be. I push it down alongside the pit, and pull the pit back out the top. It's a simple, neat solution.
If you don't have a tool-making grandfather available, just unfold a large paperclip. The narrower end is just right for the pits in our small fruit.

For firm cherries (think Bing), the pit is pushed out. The cherry (or olive) rests in the bowl at the bottom, dimple side up.

Squeeze the handle and the post pushes the pit right out through the bottom of the cherry. It is SO easy, the fruit stays in great shape, and nothing is left clinging to the pit.

I am not generally a fan of one-trick kitchen gadgets (banana tree, garlic holder, mushroom brush), but this tool was I gift I still love and make room for. Fresh cherries have a short season, and for most of us it's no big deal to eat them and spit out the pits. But what about cherries for your toddler? Or would you ever bother putting cherries in fruit salad or serving them at a party? I've done both. Besides, it's really fun to pop out those pits. Everyone wants a turn. ;-)

I was just looking for this pitter online, and found one that even has a splash guard! Mine is unguarded, so I do hold it down in the sink or a bowl when pitting, because there is much splashing of potentially staining juice.

Tools of the Trade: Dutch oven

This Christmas I asked for and received a 6 1/2 quart enameled cast iron Dutch oven. I had a smaller one (without enamel) that I didn't use, but this one would be a different story. And it is!

I wanted this pot so I could bake easy, crusty bread. There's been a lot of hoopla about this kind of bread, first in the NY Times, and more recently in Cook's Illustrated. I had to tweak the recipe (the bottom kept burning), but it is now turning out reliably well. The pot and lid are important because they are preheated. The risen dough is added and covered, then baked for 30 minutes. The heat and steam inside create the thick, chewy crust. The bread is then uncovered and baked for another 20 + minutes.

This is one big, heavy bread pan though, so I'm multi-tasking with it now. The wide base, tall sides, and heat retention make it great for browning meat. Below are some chunks of pork shoulder that I browned before simmering in the crock pot. I'll post the procedure later; the shredded meat is good for BBQ, burrito filling, or even fried rice.

This winter I've been tweaking a beef stew recipe, and my new pot has improved the outcome. The same issue of Cook's Illustrated (Jan/Feb 2008) that had the bread recipe and Dutch oven recommendation also had a feature called "Mastering the Art of Stew". The biggest revelation for me was the idea of simmering in the oven. At 300-325 degrees, the food cooks gently without scorching on the bottom. I can brown the onions and meat on top of the stove, add liquid, simmer in the oven until the meat is tender, add other veggies, and continue in the oven until they are tender as well. I've heated chili in the oven, too.

I am thrilled with my heavy green pot, which, by the way, also looks beautiful on the table. Yes, I know I am easily amused. ;-)

Summer Salad

It's a little early for a summer salad, but this week's post about my salad spinner (with recipe) got me thinking about the summertime version:

I use the romaine lettuce, but increase the amount of diced tomatoes. This started as a tomato salad that lettuce was added to, so use as much as you like, especially if you've got garden fresh tomatoes. Add shredded mozzarella, slivered fresh basil, and a good vinaigrette. Good Seasons made with balsamic or red wine vinegar is simple and tasty. YUM!

Tools of the Trade: Salad Spinner

I love my salad spinner! I finally wore out the first one, and this second generation Swiss model is even better. It has a cool pull-cord that the children clamor to use, and the salad can even be served from or stored in the bowl with its flat lid.

Spinning water off lettuce dries it well enough for the dressing to cling nicely.

Our new favorite salad goes like this (serves 8-10):
Cut 1 1/2 to 2 heads of romaine length-wise from stem to tip. Turn 90 degrees and cut again. Chop the lettuce cross-wise into a clean sink of cold water (see notes below). Swish and spin. Put in a bowl big enough for tossing.
Cut 3-4 large plum tomatoes (or whatever) in half, then dice. Put these into the salad spinner and "rough them up" with your hand to loosen the seeds and liquid. Spin these and add to the salad bowl.
Look how much liquid came out of those tomatoes! Add diced cucumber (up to 1 English) and croutons. Pour on your favorite dressing and toss. Serve right away. (By the way, the above salad was tossed in a larger bowl and transferred for serving.)

Notes:

• As I said, this is our new favorite. We can eat it up to 4 times a week and not get tired of it. We're at the stage of buying Costco-sized packages every couple of weeks: 6 heads of romaine (occasionally 12), 2 boxes (8 each) of tomatoes, 3-packs of English cucumbers, and 2 POUNDS of croutons (these last a month or more)!
• Our favorite dressing is actually Good Seasons Italian. I'm not going to look up the article right now, but when Cook's Illustrated (VERY picky) taste-tested commercial dressings, Good Seasons came out on top.
• If there's not time to clear and clean a sink, I will swish the lettuce in a big bowl of cold water. The bowl just gets rinsed and dried (not washed), so it's not really extra work.
• Do your best to make the right amount of salad. Once it is dressed, quality begins to decrease. I've eaten leftovers for breakfast, but it's not the best.
• I can make this mostly ahead, adding the croutons and dressing at the last minute.
• Another little grace note: pre-dressed salad can go right on the dinner plate. Until recently we had to set out bowls, and no one ate as much salad per meal as now.